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40|SMILEOFJAPAN|TRAVELVOLUNTEERPROJECTCITIESFUKUSHIMASINCETHEEARTHQUAKE,TSUNAMIANDNUCLEARDISASTER,WEKNOWWE’VEGOTAJOBCONVINCINGANYONETOCOMETOFUKUSHIMA.THETRUTHIS:ITWASNEVERABIGTOURISTDESTINATIONANYWAY.BUTUNTILMARCH2011,AIZUGOTMORETHANITSFAIRSHAREOFVISITORS,PEOPLEWHOCAMETOSEETHELOCALHANDICRAFTS,TOVISITTHECASTLEANDTOLEARNTHEOFTHEINFAMOUSDEEDSOFTHEBYAKKOTAI(WHITETIGERFORCE).AFTERABATTLE,19OFTHEYOUNGWARRIORSRETREATEDTOAHILL,LOOKEDOUTACROSSAIZUANDSAWTHECASTLEBURNING,ORATLEASTTHEYTHOUGHTTHEYDID,SOCOMMITTEDSEPPUKU(SELF-DISEMBOWLMENT).UNFORTUNATELY,THEYWEREABITPREMATURE:ITWASONLYTHEBUILDINGSAROUNDTHECASTLETHATWEREONFIRE.SOTHEIRDEED,INTHEEND,WASABIT...WELL...SILLY.ONESOLIDERFAINTEDMID-TUMMYSLICEANDLIVEDTOTELLTHETALEOFTHEULTIMATEMILITARYBUNGLE.BUTIT’SNOTALLDOOM,GLOOMANDSPILLEDINTESTINES,SOWITHRAINCLOUDSOVERHEAD,KATYATTACHEDTHEMACROLENSTOTHECAMERAANDTOOKACLOSERLOOKAROUNDTHECITY.AIZU,FUKUSHIMA:UPCLOSE
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